Taps (Il Silenzio)

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>          Thought  you
> might enjoy this.
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>        You may never have heard the full rendition of
> Il
>        Silenzio, otherwise known as "Taps".
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>        This is a most beautiful rendition.  The
> girl's name
>        is Melissa Venema and is playing with maestro
>  Andre
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>        Rieu from Maastriecht in
> the Netherlands. She is 13
>        and  has been performing for years. This
> performance
>        is in 2008  Masstriecht where city officials
> sealed off the
>        town square and  closed everything down so they
> get
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>        perfect noise control.
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>        I am sure all of you that have studied music
> will appreciate
>        such talent from this  13 year old young lady.
>  This
>        is the first time I have ever heard the full
> rendition of
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>        Taps and I enjoyed it very much. Felt like I
> should share
>        this  attachment with you. I am sure you will
> appreciate such
>        a wonderful  performance.
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>       P.S.  For
> you trumpet purists hold comments on the
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>       overshot
> ombeshure. 
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~ Ear Flaps

You've got to love our older Veterans. This man, 73, wears a protective flap over his ear while Senator Ted Kennedy, Barack Obama, and Hilary Clinton address the Veterans of Foreign Wars..  I wish I could shake this man's hand...   I just want to know where he got it.   We could ALL make use of something like this!          Love it.

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HOW DID THEY MAKE IT???...Commercial

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Inside the Space Station

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Space Shuttle

smell the flowers

Last Year - Best Pictures

US/Canada Travels for 2009

Lets do the numbers for the 2009 trip

Time frame: May 5 through October 4 2009

Mileage: 30,000 miles (48,000 kilometers)

Vehicle:
Honda Element 2007 (described as the Toaster or commonly called, The Goatmobile)
Note: Vehicle will be left in Pennsylvania for my return trip next April 2010 for another adventure of sorts

Travel itinerary:
Honolulu – California – Nevada – Oregon - Washington- Vancouver Island - British Columbia – Alaska – Yukon - Northwest Territories- Alberta – Saskatchewan – Manitoba – Ontario –New York – Vermont – New Hampshire – Maine – New Brunswick – Quebec – Labrador – Newfoundland – Nova Scotia – Prince Edward Island – Massachusetts – Connecticut – Pennsylvania – Maryland – Virginia – North Carolina – West Virginia

Note: There were times where I had to cross back through various states as Peter Pan I am not.

Tires:
Michelin 215/70-16 purchased through Costco, Honolulu
Note: Costco provides free balancing and rotation of tires bought through them throughout the US/Canada. Fix all flats and if tire is road damaged, they will replace it with a new one with you paying only for the wear of the tire. In my case with the tire damaged in New Brunswick, Canada, it cost me $50.00 for a $200.00 new tire replacement.

Road Conditions:
The US was pretty much humbug, which means sealed roads overall. But the dirt and gravel roads were out there if you travel the small county roads.

Canada: The Yukon, Northwest Territories and Labrador had the most dirt /gravel roads traveled. Probably the worst patch was the dirt road from Churchill to Goosebay, Labrador for the potholes, just bloody terrible. One of the most enjoyable was the dirt road to the Arctic Circle, Yukon for the beauty of the landscape and remoteness.

Electronics:
GPS: Garmin ZUMU 550
Laptop: MacBook
Cell phone: Motorola with the Canada Plan (450 minutes monthly for $70.00)
EPIRB: Satilite emergency beacon
Inverter (12volts to 120 volts)

Equipment:
Air compressor for tire, 6-gallon water container, 2.5-gallon petrol can, shovel, axe, tow cable, battery jumper cables, fire extinguishers, 4 man tent, sleeping bag (20 degrees F), air mattress, mountain bicycle, bike rack, first aid kit, vehicle tool bag, Thule Cargo Carrier 8 cuft,

Photos
Facebook made the ease of sending out photo’s of the trip as I traveled. Before it was always when I would get back to Hawaii then do a series of Power Points. Which was time consuming and after the fact.

Cameras
Canon 20D SLR, Canon G9 Point and Shoot

Food:
You probably don’t want to hear this but…………. Energy Bars, hard-boiled eggs, juice, Hummus, bread and a proper cuppa when found. The only cooking I did was to boil eggs in my coffee pot. Multi vitamins, Motrin and meds for various ailments. Due to my well rounded diet, I found that my fingernails started to split, crack and just be a bloody pain. The cure for this was, believe me on this, women’s finger nail polish. Yep per, it solved a lot of grief.

Monies
In Canada it was all on a cash basis. Using a credit card drawn on an US bank subjected you to currency fluctuations plus the percentage that the credit card company would charge you for the conversion of one currency to another. In the US a different story altogether. The cost of petrol in Canada was double then what I had anticipated, this really cut into the cash flow. What I had planned originally was staying at various RV campsites, but looking at the cash flow for petrol had me sleeping along the roadside the bulk of the time. In Canada this was pretty much the norm for travelers, in the US more humbug.

Travel 2010:
Back to Newfoundland for a start, then west to where the road takes me. One thing for sure will be getting photos of Musk Ox and spending more time in Alaska during the fall. Another trip to the Arctic Circle and beyond from Fairbanks, Alaska this time.

Note: Visualize what a black truck looks like after sitting under a tree full of birds for 5 months……!!

Norm
The Greynomad

09/30/2009 Pennsylvania-Virginia-North Carolina-West Virginia

Out of Hanover Pennsylvania heading for Front Royale and the start of the Skyline Drive through the Shenandoah National Park. Getting there was a work of art with the GPS having me head to Washington DC (southeast) and I wanting to head west. I finally just shut the GPS down and reverted to the old standby, the bloody map.

The weather for the day started out overcast and wet and stayed this way into Virginia. Once on the Skyline Drive you had to contend with fog and rain. Stopped at the first campsite on the route, which just about sits at 3000 feet. The same bugs I left in Muncy have moved in mass to this one particular site only!!!!

And Starbucks Coffee is only minutes away. Heavy dew from the night before but since I am back to sleeping in the Goatmobile, life is good. After spending the last week or so sleeping in a bed, eating food that is digestible, taking showers nightly it is good to get back to the Spartan life style of energy bars, bananas and peeling hard-boiled eggs on the road.

First night was at Mathews Arm, 2nd at Lewis Mountain and the third at Loft Mountain. Total mileage between the 3 is around 80 miles. Believe me I have never in this whole trip putted around, covered so little miles as I have in the last 3 days. Could it be that it is only costing me $7.50 per night and after leaving my last bar of soap in Hanover, the next 15 days I could be just a bit ripe when I pull into Hawaii next month.

The Skyline drive is worth every mile of travel. Did climb down the trail to Dark Hollow Falls. I should have known better then to even think that the falls would have any water flowing at this time of the year. Spring when the snow melts would be the time to view the falls. Anyway down you go, get to the bottom, take picture, and the comely National Park Ranger informs you to think of climbing a 44 story building going back up. Being in the shape of a slug riding in a vehicle for the last 4.5 months, no problem! No comment as to when I finally reached the top.

From Skyline Drive to the Blue Ridge Parkway was just a coffee cup away. Fog was the biggest problem as I headed south but as I was in the leisure cruise mod, getting to the next campsite was no worries. Campsite for the night was the Roanoke Mountain just off the parkway. Another $8.00 night and within 4 miles is the YMCA where a shower is to be had for a $1.00 including a towel.

Leaving Roanoke the next morning heading south. First off hitting fog and rain and more fog. Finally stopped off at a National Park Station and the good word was that I could expect fog and rain for the next 4=5 days and wouldn’t clear up until I reached the Great Smokey Mountains National Park 200 miles south. The speed limit on the Blue Ridge Parkway was 45 mph with the fog as an added factor, your speed dropped down to 25-35 mph. It was at this point I decided that I had had enough so with reluctance turned north. Found a campsite for the night and would wait for morning before deciding where I would head next.

Well its by-god West Virginia and a step back 20 years in time. I believe the whole state lives in a time capsule that keeps everyone and things in a 1950 time frame. If you want to get away from it all, West Virginia is where it’s at plus being in the middle of the Bible belt. After spending a night at a state park it was north to view the New River Gorge Bridge just off route 19. The site is run by the National Park Service, so all of your questions are at a fingertip away. Once you climb down to the viewing platform you realize that it’s also going to be an incredible spot to be once the change of colors happen to the trees that line the gorge.

Back on Rt 19 going north then catch 39 East until you get to the Cranberry Recreation Area within the Monongahela National Forest. Gravel roads but numerous campsites and just about empty for this time of year. And getting close to being bug free, but not quite………And for $5.00 per night, other sites within the area are even down to $2.50. Generally most sites have a long drop, trash bins, potable water (maybe), and picnic table. Tomorrow we continue east with a visit to the Cranberry Glades Botanical Area and the Pearl Buck (Goggle) Museum.

Tomorrow it is and the first stop is the Cranberry Glades, a ½ mile walk along a boardwalk with information kiosk at various stops. Next stop was at the visitor center where the first cuppa of the day was to be had. Leaving the visitors center we head north on Route 150 which takes us through some of the most brilliant colors I’ve seen to date for the changing of the leaves. Just maybe West Virginia is a bit ahead of everyone else with the foliage coloring. Get on Route 219 to Pearl Buck museum, no cameras inside but it was interesting to see where she was born and I believe lived until the age of 3 yrs before moving back to China

North is was on Rt 219 to Rt 33 and finally Route 32 to Blackwater State Park; remember now we are still in West Virginia. It was a long day but the colors of the foliage were just spectacular all of the way. Another 2 weeks and you would not want to leave for the kaleidoscope of colors that the leaves will bring out.

Rain it did for the night along with the No-see-ums; how any bug so small can cause such grief! Next morn its north to Pennsylvania for another stay with folks in Hanover. Next day it was back to Gettysburg, purchased an audio CD that takes you on an auto tour of the battlefield. There are a total of 15 stops you make with the CD and it covers the battle from start to finish. A must if you ever get to the area and do it during the week, forget weekends and summer as its busy, busy, busy.

Hanover then to Muncy, Pennsylvania where the Goatmobile will be left for the winter.

Norm
The Greynomad

09/16/09 Pennsylvania

To Muncy, Pennsylvania to stay with old friends from Hawaii. A bit of an old/odd couple, both in their 70’s running an organic farm for the state’s correctional (prison) system. My first day there and they have me shoveling horse manure, tons of it, for the solar wind powered consolidation fermentation plant. Of course they have volunteers showing up all week long helping, one in particular wears an electronic band around her ankle, shaved head with biker’s tattoo’s and a large letter D on her head.

Having had a pretty much a sedate life for the past months, working on a farm definitely had me looking for the scotch bottle and the biggest Motrin (ibuprofen) pill ever at the end of each day. This lasted for a bit and of course with a pretty high bug count, my legs looked terrible. Found relief in shucking onions and garlic for the rest of the time. Of course your hands smelled like the whatever’s at the end of the day.

South to Hanover, Pennsylvania for a few days and the number one priority is getting the front windscreen replaced from numerous dings and cracks (Yukon). Also had friends in the area that used to be neighbors in the townhouse complex in Hawaii back in the 1980’s. Got a tour at the Harley-Davidson motorcycle factory and the Hersey Chocolate Factory.

The Hersey Factory tour is a must for all of you chocolate lovers out there; Stay away during the summer and any holiday as its tours and kids to the max. And do they like to hand out free samples……………The day before was touring a potatoes chip factory. I’ve never had such excitement as I’ve had these past 2 days. Tomorrow it is touring Gettysburg (Civil War) for the day.

When I left Muncy for Hanover (3hrs) thinking that I had everything in hand. Well after getting to Hanover I find my dirty laundry, clean clothes (minimum) and toilet kit is missing. So we sit here with one set of clothes, toothbrush without bristles, and a case of used motor oil. I feel the neeeeeeeeed for Wal-Mart…!

Gettysburg it is for the day and there is everything there to keep you busy for days, especially if you are Civil War enthusiasts.

This pretty well sums it up for Pennsylvania, tomorrow its south to the Blue Ridge Parkway, which crosses Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee

Norm
The Grey Nomad

09/11/09 New Brunswick-Maine-New Hampshire –Vermont-Connecticut

Well after leaving Prince Edward Island, it was to Moncton, New Brunswick for juice, hummus and bloody well nothing else. Route 126 north to Barnaby River then Route 108 to Plaster Rock (are we getting all of this?)…. Into Plaster Rock for the night and the young thing at the campsite actually thought that I was too young to qualify for the Senior Discount. Well its small black flies for the night and I seem to acquire a black Labrador dog for a best buddy. It must be the smell of my 5-day-old socks that brings on the loving feeling with the females. Plaster Rock has one pulp mill that has been shut down for the last 8 months. Due to open within weeks and is scheduled to run only 14 weeks. If the mill closes permanently as most of the pulp mills have across the US and Canada, Plaster Rock will become another ghost town.

Prince Edward Island only employee related work is either fishing or potatoes. And of course the income from fishing is barely making it so it’s either potatoes, go on unemployment or travel to the mainland looking for work.

From Plaster Rock it’s following the US/Canadian border all the way to Fort Kent (US). Of course the US Immigration officer couldn’t make any sense out of my Hawaiian License plate so it was over to the side for a vehicle search. Biggest problem was my eggs, but it was a go once they understood that they were hard-boiled. Is this getting too exciting here or what? Next I pull into the information center and lock the keys in the vehicle for the first time in 4 months. Luckily I had an extra key taped to the vehicle body.

Down the road it is to Baxter State Park and a drive through its 40+ miles of roads. Single lane, gravel and pretty much a miss as the only open areas to view were at the campsites. The time to be at Baxter is within the next 2 weeks when the leaves start changing colors. Out of Baxter to Greenville and one misable gravel road at that. Thinking that I was finally rid of the gravel dust for the next 2 months; wrong, everything is coated and I am back to square one.

The next morning has us out of Maine crossing New Hampshire, which is only a blip on the radar screen as the state is very narrow at the top. Vermont, the state that boasts more Subaru cars then sheep, up scale yuppies that drink the coffee that is chewed by the Cocoa Monkey’s out of Panama under a triple canopy of Butternut Squash………

Its covered bridges following Route 100 down the full length of Vermont. As it happens in Vermont there just had to be a major bicycle race down Route 100 on the holiday weekend. So with GPS in hand it was dirt side roads trying to get ahead of the race. Failed on two attempts but the third go around I managed to get around the race and back to covered bridges.

Being that I had a low life relative within 100 miles, it was to the south of Connecticut I went. Spent 2 nights there which entailed drinking their one bottle of 12 year old scotch and explaining the virtues of Rush Limbaugh………….(talk show idiot of many).

To the dismay of many, I had to wash my clothes and sleeping bag. The sleeping bag turned the inside of the washing machine black, me thinks that my feet might have had something to do with it.

Next leg of this journey is south to Pennsylvania.

Norm
The Greynomad

09/07/09 Prince Edward Island (PEI)

Not wanting to cross the bridge to PEI from New Brunswick as the Canada Sport Games were still on. Decided to spend the night at Cape Tomindine, New Brunswick. Of course Tropical Storm Danny was to hit at the same time but being that I was sleeping in the Goatmobile, riding out the storm was a no-brainer. Well at 1800hrs the rain and wind was just getting started and for the rest of the night it was rock and roll time. The weather bureau had estimated a 100 millimeters of rain, it was double the number and gusts of wind up in the 50-60 knots at times.

Crossing the bridge this AM to PEI, everyone that I’ve talked was in no doubt that the strength of the rain and wind from the tropical storm was just unbelievable in comparison to Hurricane Bill the week before.

North Cape it was with a stop for the cuppa before heading north. The weather was over cast plus 60% chance of rain leaves no doubt that life is just going to get better as the day drags on. By afternoon there was threats of sunshine and another round of chasing lighthouses. Seems that there are other sad souls out there chasing the same rainbow. Imagine meeting up with couples that were at other lighthouses in July and can relate as well to the color of the Tim Horton’s coffee.

Heading for the East Cape and the whatever’s that just seem to pop up as we travel. Not to get off the subject but back when PEI had a railroad that ran through the middle of the island, running hot money from the tourist. The railroad in 1989 shut down and some how someone or group had the idea to make a hiking/bike trail from it. Just a brilliant idea that has worked so well and during the winter months Ski-doo’s use it. Another great place to visit is Iles de la Madeleine, a group of island’s that are a 5 hour boat ride from Souris, PEI. Haven’t been there but a great place from what I’d heard. Getting back to lighthouses, one of the best I’ve been to while in PEI has been St Peters Harbour. The road out to it is dirt, flooded with a solid base and a great ride. The beach is yours and the dunes are just magnificent. Just the kind of place to get lost and spend time.

East Cape lighthouse it is and after taking the necessary pictures, buying a PEI vehicle decal and looking somewhat interested in lighthouse number 275 we move on. The stop for the night is at another provincial campsite, shutting down after the 15th of this month, as are most places. Summer is over, the kids are back in school and the tourist are leaving town.

Next day pretty much the same routine, chasing lighthouses. Did you know that PEI has over 52 lighthouses on a very, very small island? I have countered over 30 myself and believe me I have no intensions to try to find any more. I have one more day on PEI, primarily getting through the capitol and onto the Confederation Bridge to New Brunswick

Norm
The Grey Nomad

08/30/09 Nova Scotia

Landing in Nova Scotia at 0600hrs leads us to a Tim Horton’s, Canada’s answer to McDonalds, with a cuppa and major fat pill for the early morn. As life is at pretty much a stand still this time of day in North Sidney, the visitor center doesn’t open for another 4 hours and I’ll be glued to the ceiling if I don’t get away from coffee.
Cape Breton it is following the Cabot Trail with hopes of finding something of wildlife. How is it when you are in Newfoundland for 3 weeks and total wildlife count is 3? This is suppose to be moose country to the max and the only thing that is encounted is Puffins and seagulls…………..Getting back to the Cape, up the east side to Bay St. Lawrence, then a little further to Meat Cove for a proper bowel of seafood chowder. The scenery is magnified coming down the west coast of the Cape, not to be missed and anyone that rides a bike will love it.

Next day it’s the Bras d’Or Lake drive around the southern part of the Cape with a stop at St Peter’s visitor’s center. Hurricane Bill is scheduled to hit the island the next day with rain and wind, not a good day to be on the road so its best to find a bar, beer, French fries and a large screen telly….. Anyway it’s up the east side to Louisbourg, National Historic site of Canada, for a quick stop at the site of the first lighthouse built in Nova Scotia. One of the lighthouse volunteers took a picture of the Hawaii License Plate after relating that they are expecting waves of 5 meters or more when Hurricane Bill hits the next day. Another feature of Nova Scotia is that some road signs are English/Celtic or English/French depending on where the original people settled first.

With Hurricane Bill in mind and the warnings running a miss, Halifax was next on the list to be when Bill hit. So after spending 8 hours on the road from touring Cape Breton, it was another 4hrs to Halifax for peace of mine. And did the wind blow and rain hit for the better part of the next day but being that I was staying in a Japanese Bath House for the duration and Mama-san was more then happy to accept my credit card. And did I mention that the bottles of 26 oz Japanese beer goes down quite well.

Of course with Halifax having a Costco, the tyres were again rotated and balanced and I stocked up on juice and organic chips for me next travels.

Heading southwest following the Lighthouse Trail around the southern part of Nova Scotia. You hit every fishing village, which becomes a blur after a while. One lighthouse after another and you are beginning to wish for Deer Flies and mosquito’s………… In all of my travels this year each state or province had something that just set it apart. For Nova Scotia it is FOG, that’s right, bloody FOG with a capital F!!!!!! Don’t even think about getting out early to sight see, its fog here, fog there and the only good thing that has come out of it is Tim Horton’s cuppa, mega-cuppa for that early morning wake me up. Usually by mid-day the sun has managed to burn off the fog enough that you can get around but fear not for by dark-thirty you can see the fog beginning to roll back in again.

Having covered the south end and most of the northern coast of Nova Scotia that borders on the Bay of Fundy. One of the best trips for this segment has been following the coastline from Hampton to Cape Split. You are away from the main stream with small villages, dirt roads and farm country.

It was another day of following the coastline around the Bay of Fundy with its many lighthouses. One that really stands out is the lighthouse at Burncost. Not only do you have the lighthouse to look at but also there is a walkway that leads to the channel bay bottom when and if the tide is out. Burncost is also listed in the Guinness Book of Records as to having the greatest tidal change, something to the effect of 10 meters. Have a tropical storm headed toward Nova Scotia this weekend so it’s either Saturday or Sunday that I will find some place to hide. If Halifax wasn’t so far away, Mama-san at the Japanese Bath House would have a returning customer.

Having found another secluded spot for the night, not known to me it was also the local spot for those intent on exploring thy partners external tissue. And there I sit with a copy of the Giddings bible in me hands waving it in the air to those sinners…….

Did I mention that I have regained the ancient art of peeling a hard-boiled egg out of the window while driving!!? Of course we do have the occasional mishap of dropping subject egg on the road to the annoyance of vehicle behind me though. I would pass this technique onto my friends south of the equator, but this means using their drinking arm to facilitate subject egg shell removal plus being that the earth rotates in the opposite direction, I wonder…………..

First lighthouse of the day was at Five Islands (Google) then onto Parrsboro, which is still active. The road from Parraboro west is all curves and a very scenic shoreline. Cape d’Or is not to be missed, gravel road is corrugated but worth the trip. It’s a bit of a walk down a gravel road to the lighthouse but the view is exceptional. The Cape is the last of lighthouses for Nova Scotia on the Glooscap Trail in the Bay of Fundy. Another night at a NS Provincial Park before heading out to Cape George for the last of last lighthouses on my journey through Nova Scotia. Tropical storm Danny is headed our way with heavy rains by mid-day through the night and Sunday. Getting back to Cape George, I need to read the small print, this was no bigger then the others viewed though constructed of concrete vice wood. It was a 7-hour trip out and back with crossing the border into New Brunswick, Cape Tormentine (Google) for the night. Stayed here back in July just before heading north to Quebec.

Factoids: 26,000 miles = 40,000 kilometers since May. Cost to date: Vehicle + food + lodging + petrol = $3.42 Any questions see my advisor Alan Greenspan (former chairman of the US Federal Reserve) ……

Norm
The Greynomad

08/21/09 New Brunswick-Quebec-Labrador-Newfoundland

Crossing over from Maine to New Brunswick took longer then anticipated. The Canadian Immigration Officer just wanted to chat; we covered everything but the cost of a Big Mac hamburger.

After stopping at the information center, we headed south and within 10 kilometers we have our first flat tyre in 20,000 miles (32,000 kilo’s). Now this is Sunday afternoon around 1600hrs. Can we even guess how many tyre shops are open; do I really need to go any further on this discussion, no. So we sit at a truck stop with rain adding to the gloom, but there is a positive glow to this, Newfoundland is on the horizon.

Next day its off to get the tyre fixed, I end up at a NAPA auto shop and for a bit of cheer and a plug for the tyre I am on my way. Heading south to St Andrews for a quick stop for email and another mega-bit of tourist data, which is automatically forgotten once I am out the door. Fog and rain it is all day long so those prized pictures that I anticipated taking was a bit of a lost cause. A lay-by it was for the night with fog and drizzle for the comforting addition.

Morn brings fog even thicker but by mid-day the bulk of it has burned off. As Costco was in route to where I was going it was another stop to get the tyre rotated and balanced. Come to find out that the plug that NAPA did was not right but as I bought the tyres at Costco in Hawaii I was credited with the damaged tyre and a minimum cost for a new one.

Leaving Costco, it is Southeast to the coast and following the coast line until I am within shouting distance of the bridge going over to Prince Edward Island. And it is here that I will spend the night. The sunset is incredible here along with the retreating tide (Facebook).

Moving along the coastline finds us a bit further up the coast where the weather all day long is 32 C. Find a RV site for the night and it has to be the tent for the first time in over a month. Winds start buffing the tent as we rock and roll and next it is rain, heavy rain that continues all night long. The morn finds myself sleeping in a puddle, rain and winds continuing. Up and everything is shoved into the back of the goatmobile. The weather remains like this all morning and into the afternoon. Weather forecast is for another day of heavy rain along the Brunswick east coast. I finally mange to make it up the northern coast enough that there is a resemblance of sun. Find a school parking lot and lay out all of the gear on the tarmac. The heat from the tarmac and being blessed with sun has the bulk of the gear dry within an hour’s time frame. One thing you do notice as you move closer to Quebec English is the second language and just about all signs
are in French.

All across Canada all of the signs are in English with French subtitles. Welcome to Quebec, forget English period. Everything is French regardless and if you thought English would be a second language, wrong again. There are some words that are universal such as beer, scotch and others that a proper sailor like myself has no problem expressing.

Crossing New Brunswick into Quebec province, Gaspésie, we follow route 132 that follows the coastline. The southern coastline is a Wal-mart, McDonalds nightmare. Every tourist trap you can think of is there along with traffic, buses and aimless twits for 250 kilometers. Once you make it pass the National Park at Gaspe east end everything begins to settle down. Matter of fact following the coast line back west becomes enjoyable with small fishing villages and a road that runs right along the waters edge. And every village you enter, the biggest structure by far is a church and I mean every village. As explained to me the churches are product of the Quebec French, right now both land and patronage poor. The rest stops are frequent and some even sell food and most are available to spend the night at. Petrol can be a problem first thing in the morning as the majority of the stations don’t open until after 8 or 9 AM. The major cities will have a station open but plan accordingly. If you have the time, the north coast of Gaspésie is a place that deserves more time and each village just invites you to explore.

Starting from Quebec City following Route 138 to Baie-Comeau, by the way has a Wal-mart, going through every tourist trap possible and a ferry ride before stopping for the last petrol stop for 600 kilometers. The first leg is 214 km of sealed road and unknown to the tourist minister a fuel stop at $1.94 per liter. Who cares if its $4 per liter as long as you don’t run out of fuel. The next leg is 280 km of gravel, dust, truckers, bloody dust and not in that order either. The truckers were the worst that I’ve ever encountered. The only time you could get around them was on an up hill swing and believe me they made you pay for passing.

Finally getting into Fremont, Quebec, mining town, around 2130hrs after driving 12hrs (900km). Found a case of beer and became an unknown.

Next morning it was crossing into Labrador and a stop in Labrador City for a cuppa and muffin. Goose Bay was on the agenda, 8hrs of driving on 550km of gravel. The truckers were a blessing on this leg; they would pull over and signal to pass each time. The road to city of Churchill, midway, was in decent shape but the last 300km to Goose Bay was a nightmare with rain and potholes to the max.

Next day it’s catching the ferry from Goose Bay to Cartwright, a 13hrs over night trip. Sooth sailing all the way except for finding a sleeping place which ended up in the bar listening to two yahoo’s talk about their kids and 3rd wife until 0230hrs.
Ferry arrives Cartwright 0600hrs, a young lady passes out a small brochure on Cartwright, what she does not tell anyone is that nothing opens until 1000hrs. Well it’s down the road until Mary’s Harbor, 250km, and a stop for the day. Off tomorrow to visit Battle Harbor, back in the 1700’s, it was the Saltfish capital of Labrador and is still worked during the summer months.

Battle Harbor, Labrador for the day with a quick stop at St Lewis Harbor to pickup the 60+ Ladies Quilt Club for their annual trek to Battle Harbor. With monies from Canadian Historical Society the buildings are slowing being restored to their original condition. Upon arriving, lunch was served, codfish stew, and from there it was a guided tour of the settlement. Hard to believe it but there was an iceberg in the channel (Facebook).

Next morn its south to Blanc Sablon, and the last of the gravel roads, to catch the ferry to St. Barbe, Newfoundland, cost for a senior with vehicle $25.00, and only 1 1/2hrs travel time. Off the ferry and its left to St. Anthony’s for the next couple of days. First visit is to L’Anse-aux Meadows, UNESCO World Heritage site, for the only evidence of a Viking settlement in North America. I did mention that at one of the recent digs a bottle cap from a Guinness Bottle was found. Next it’s the Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve for some great photography. Information on both sites can be Googled for those interested. Last site for the day was Goose Cove for a view of an iceberg. Tomorrow its south to Gros Morne National Park for 3 days of people, people and some really great photo’s, me thinks.

Gros Morne National Park it is and a RV camp site for the duration. First find a restaurant that serves cod fish cakes, beer, French fries, baked beans and a guarantee that the ozone layer is will be impacted. First off is a tour of the fresh water lake, which also included gusts of wind in the 40 knots plus category. The interpreters gave a go account of themselves with enough of the BS to cover all bases. It was the 3-kilometer walk in and return that provided enough discomfort to the aging knees and ankle that additional beer and French fries were called for……………..

Next day it was to the Tablelands, a crust of the inner earth that predates even me. The following day finds the Goatmobile (another 6 hour drive) headed for Bonavista, a fishing village in the northeast of Newfoundland that has a nesting site of Puffin birds, whales, lighthouse, codfish cakes and more French fries.

Bonavista is another fishing village that is facing hard times. Everyone works from June through September and then its unemployment or the dole for the rest of the time will be your cup of tea. Every small community that I traveled through said basically the same thing, unemployment or the dole is what carries the communities through the winter months and it is the way of life. Some of the men may leave for the mainland for work but the bulk stay home and wait for spring.

From Bonavista we head to St. Johns, capital of Newfoundland, with a quick stop at Costco for tyre repair, juice, chips and a 5-gallon bucket of Hummus. Climb Signal Hill, take pictures, keep walking and more pictures. Next day it is south to Trepassey Bay for a run out to Cape Race. Cape Race (Facebook) has quite a history, besides hearing the distress call from the Titanic, she has also claimed over 2000 lives from ship’s loss to storms and groundings.

From Cape Race we continue around the peninsular to Placentia (Google). Cape St Mary’s Reserve and lighthouse was next. Unfortunately Mother Nature decided to blanket the coast with fog for the next 4 days. With a ride on the ferry to Nova Scotia, 14hrs transit time from Argentia NFLD to North Sydney, Nova Scotia the next day. The boat ride was uneventful but it is a bear trying to get a place to lie down and sleep.

If you can navigate through the fog (Facebook), enjoy. I could spend another month in Newfoundland and still would not cover everything that I wanted to see.

Norm
The Grey Nomad

07/27/2009 Ontario, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ontario-New York-New England

7.27.2009

Across the border it was and petrol at $2.39 a gallon, National Public Radio (NPR) was a welcome sight and sound. The first part of the Lake Superior Circle Route was following Minnesota Route 61 south along the lake, fog was in but finally cleared toward mid-day. Once arriving at Duluth, you hook a left and head into Wisconsin on Route 2 and basically just follow the coastline.

The first night stay in Wisconsin introduced me to the black fly. Makes the mosquito look tame in comparison to volume of blood drawned. The mossies were in strength though and how they manage to make their way inside the goatmobile is beyond me. The underside of the roof to the vehicle is looking like someone hit it with a paint gun with the number of mossies that I have splattered with the book of choice.

Of course there where a couple of major screw-up’s on my part thinking or miss reading the map that just had to be a bridge to cross over to facilitate continuing along the coast line. I just don’t believe the National Park Service would appreciate me driving my vehicle over their pedestrian swing bridge to access the road on the other side. So back it is and did I mentioned that this whole region has had the coldest summer in the past 5 years, major drought and the summer has just begin.

Michigan it is again following the coast as best as I can. And the further north I go into the Keweenaw Peninsula the more the area is economically depressed. The homes remind me of the poor section of town where I grew up at. Run down, abandon, trash everywhere and of course the local pub is doing a booming business. But what is amazing is that not every town is like that. You will go through 2-3 that are really depressed and the next one you could eat off the street.

The Keweenaw Peninsula is a must. Of all of the roads travel this year, following Route 26 to Eagle River then around to Copper Harbor has to be one of the most scenic that I’ve been on. Then over to Bete Grise Bay where if there is another person on the beach its busy. Follow the coastline from Point Isabelle to Gay; rest stops to the max to enjoy the beauty of Lake Superior. This loop around the top of the peninsula is a motorcyclist dream ride.

Back down off the peninsula and head east for the US Fish and Wildlife Refuge at Seney. The night stay was along a power line road that offered up the best selection of mossies.

Next day its northeast again to the coastline and finally topping it off with a stop at the Whitefish Lighthouse where everyone else thought to go for a Sunday ride. Back down to Paradise then left along the shoreline where curtsey of the US Government a night stay at one of the rest stops with a “No Camping” sign was most proudly displayed.

Early morn had us heading for Sault Ste Marie and back into Canada again. A quick stop at the visitor’s center and was told that the local library had WI-FI outside as a default. This of course gave me the opportunity to forward the latest newsy travel log along with the Facebook pics. And right next door was the local artsy museum which had a coffee shop and oatmeal fat pills for the taking.

Back on Route 17 north until just south of Wawa where subject bridge had access road underneath. You could not have asked for a better spot, the vehicle got washed along with El-bike. The first wash since May. I am beginning to have doubts if the bicycle is going to make it until October time frame with the crap that gets thrown on it and the slow erosion of the Schwin name. The bike was manufactured in China, painted in Burma, shipped out of Haiti and the bike’s manual is in Hebrew, how you figure?

Thinking that the outback of Ontario moving east would offer some excitement, wrong, try a paved road with trees on both sides for hundreds of kilometers. That’s it, I headed south to Niagara Falls via Toronto. Wrong move on my part of even thinking that circumventing Toronto would be easy. Think traffic, Sydney, Auckland, LA at rush hour and you have it along with road construction and rain. By 1700hrs I found the first hotel/motel and that was it for the fun part of the day.

Next morning it was across the border and heading for the Iroquois National Wildlife Refuge (NWF), the GPS brought me close enough that I was able to find sign of same. From Iroquois to Montezuma NWF was just another 2 hours traveling east. One thing that you pickup right quickly is this is not Canada where you can just pull over to the side of the road and camp out. Try doing this in these small towns and believe me you will have a visit from the local gendarme.

So it was into a RV park along the shore of Lake Ontario for the night. St Lawrence NWF was the next refuge of choice as it was in my travel itinerary compass bearing (what a terrible use of words). Traveling west to east through New York State we stay on the county roads which is a lot more enjoyable then the interstate. Farms, small towns, narrow roads, people willing to talk about taxes, politics and global warming. I’ve convinced everyone that the North Koreans are behind global warming…………..

Crossing Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine, there are no interstates east to west; every road is a county road. But then again the northern portions of each state is either farming or lumber and the population is just not there to justify the cost of a major road. Each state has a major road or more running perpendicular, must be the draw of Santa during Christmas.

My comments concerning the lumber industry in British Columbia as failing is a micro-crosim of the same problems facing northern Maine.

Norm
The Greynomad

07/17/2009 - Alberta-Saskatchewan-Manitoba-Ontario

Leaving the Northwest Territories and crossing the line at the Alberta border (Rt 35) did not shed any tears on my part. Just knowing that the further south I went the density of mossies and deer flies would diminishes accordingly.

Factoids as I see it:
The Yukon has 11 major roads whereas the Northwest Territories have 6. Yukon population, as quota by the Information Center was at 33 thousand and if you listen to the NWT, they are claiming over 100 thousand. Me thinks someone is smoking the funny weed again or hiding everyone up in the tundra (Google).

Mileage: With 2 months plus on the road 16,000 miles or 25,000 kilometers; averaging 25-26 miles to the gallon (US) 3.75 liters. Average cost of petrol around $4.00 per US gallon (Canada cost is from $4-5.00 per gallon) with a high of $8.00). The amount spent on petrol is double on what I had originally estimated.

California, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Alaska, Yukon, Northwest Territories, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario

Rest Stops/Rest areas: British Columbia has loo’s at everyone; Yukon close; Northwest Territories, find a bush and Alberta, forget it…….Saskatchewan, another bush and Manitoba has one. Of course you have to realize that British Columbia has the Rocky Mountains, gateway to Alaska, glaciers, the inward passage whereas Alberta and moving east is flat, farming and deer flies.

Before I forget there are some incredible waterfalls on the NWT Route 1 south to Alberta.

Across the border it is and after many many kilometers you begiinning to realize that you are back in the prairie (Alberta) where everything is flat and the roads are straight from Horizon to horizon. The radio stations are either trying to save you again or you best enjoy country and western music. Actually found a Laundromat and at the same time managed to wash many miles of mud off the vehicle. The night was at a provincial park. The next day it was to Edmonton (capital) for replacement of the back window and to Costco for rotation of tyres. The lad who did the work mentioned that I had enough mud on the inside of the tyre hubs to build another road. Oh did I mention rain; it started first night arriving in Alberta and has continued all day. The farmers are in for another dry year here in Alberta and the crops are suffering tremendously.

Some where on route 28 I camped last night before making the big push into Saskatchewan the following morn. Stopping for the morning brew is a must if I am to survive the crossing of the border. Saskatchewan in the north is all farmland as far as I can see. You continue in a straight line to the horizon and you have another straight line in front of you. Finally got on the west side of Prince Albert National Park. As there was a gravel road north of the park and as I have just a bit of time on my hands, gravel road it was. The road was in excellent shape, not much in the wildlife area except deer and being swallowed up in a dust cloud as the truckers go by. Now we are on the east side of the park, down we go to the entrance and pay your entry fee and next informed that vendors inside the park will charge additional fees for using the facilities. Got the monies back and found myself a rest stop for the night.

And rain it did again all night long. Lets see it started raining in Alberta, continued into Saskatchewan and Manitoba as well. Now combining rain all night long and continuing through the morning does not make travel on a dirt road enjoyable. A bit like driving on ice but after the first 15 kilometers the texture of the road changed to a mixture of gravel and dirt, which improved the driving 100%.

It has been confirmed that the deer flies in Canada are manufactured by Boeing Aircraft. Airbus had bid on the project but could not meet the specifications or the time frame.

Manitoba is pretty much flat country and primarily farming which is not going to add a lot of excitement here. Found a provincial park and no attendee, so a freebie for the night and did it rain. Next morning it was up on Route 39 to 6 for a stop at the Pisew Falls. Worth the view but whether or not you’ll enjoy the ride is humbug to the max from the main highway to the falls estimate 600 kilometers round trip. It’s a two-lane road with trees on both sides for a 6 hour plus. As I took photos, they will save you a trip. Back to route 10 and a small town campsite. As I parked near the loo, unbeknown to me that there was going to be a ball game that night. Sleeping in the tent and listening to the loo doors open and shut finally pushed me back into the goatmobile where life was a lot quieter. Back on Route 10 going south and it was pretty humbug as the road is straight and trees on both sides. Coming into Swan River Valley made the day trip worth every bit. Here you have a huge valley in front of you with the multiple colors of various crops that just stretch to the horizon like a patchwork quilt.

A brief chat at the visitors center and into the Duck Provincial Park for the night.
Next morn it was over the other side of Lake Winnipeg and looking for a place to bed for the night. I finally found a rest site with a loo within Manitoba; of course it had to be the main road between Manitoba and Ontario. I am going to email the Premier of Manitoba and suggest that any tourist crossing into his domain be issued a case of Depends (Google).

The next day had us crossing over into Ontario and stopping at the friendly visitor center again. My query was concerning two water falls off route 105 (north). Be it that they didn’t know but did phone to the visitor center within the falls area. Information was the two falls that I was interested in were humbug but that there was a sensational fall up north that the locals only knew about. Well with all of this good info off I went 150 kilometers north to find what they considered just amazing was no more then water running over a set of rocks at the most 2 meters high. Someone somewhere is into a happy pill when they named this set “Big Falls”.

Next day it is south toward Thunder Bay and the crossing back into the US. There is a particular trip that circumvents Lake Superior covering Ontario, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan and back to Ontario. Believe me when I cross back into the US I will be on fumes just knowing that petrol is $2.30 a gallon.

Norm

07/08/09 Tok, Alaska-Dawson City, Yukon-Dempster Highway-Watson Lake, Yukon- Northwest Territories

Up and a cuppa next following Route 2 west until Tetlin Junction where you hook a left and follow Rt 5 to Chicken. At Chicken its another cuppa with 2 fat pills to cover the rest of the trip to the Canadian Border. From here its Rt 9 commonly called, “The Top of The World Highway” to the Yukon River ferry landing. The river must be running in excessive of 8 knots and just watching the ferry going back and forth, its amazing that the ferry can make the run from one side to the other.

Into Dawson for fuel and food for the trip north on the Dempster Highway. Its 750 kilometers of gravel road to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, one-way. The gravel road as far as I’ve gotten today is in fine shape; the mosquitoes are another question though. Once you open the door to the vehicle the suckers just swam in and it’s a mad rush to shut the door again before you are inundated. Of course for the next half hour or more while you are driving you are doing your best to kill the bloody pest but by this time they have already taken their fair share of blood. With this in mind my thoughts for stopping for the night had to be off the river and as high as possible, cold and windy as hell. This is found but there is enough bear scat (Google) around that I could very well open up shop selling fertilizer.

The Dempster Highway north it is for this bright and sunny morn. Underway by 0700hrs heading for petrol, cuppa, fat pill and lets just get there. Goal was the Native village of Inuvik (Google) with a quick stop at the Arctic Circle. With the Arctic Circle behind me it’s the ferry across the Peel River then into Fort McPherson for a cuppa. Inuvik is only 2 hours away and is doable. Well 15 kilometers out of McPherson I hear a loud noise such as a rock hitting glass, nothing on the front windscreen, but looking through the rear view mirror I see a small hole in the rear window and its getting bigger by the second. Over to the side of the road, out of the vehicle and the back window is just crumbling in front of me. I think that the rear wheel picked up a rock bounced it off the bicycle into the rear window.

Back to McPherson with gravel dust, glass pieces and mosquitoes coming through the window. After checking with a few people it was to the local canvas shop for help. Fortunately they carried a roll of clear plastic that once cut to size allowed me to cover the window and Duct tape it to the max.

After fixing the window, I decided that my fun quota for the day was over. So back south I went and 11 hrs later I am back at the campsite from the night before.
My chances that the Honda dealership in Whitehorse (Yukon Capital) will carry a back window for the Honda Element is slim or none period. The province of Alberta is probably going to be my best bet. And here I thought things were getting just too easy….!

As the sun never sets at this time of the year and with the broken back window on my mind; 0130hrs I was up packing the stuff away and what do we have but none other then a dead battery. As the vehicle is automatic, we are not jump-starting this sucker. Well after pacing up and down the road until 0445hrs, a vehicle shows up but being that it is a tractor-trailer with a 24-volt system which is not good for the 12-volt system of mind, but no worries.......! Actually 5 hours later another vehicle makes it to the horizon. Its good to go and while we are charging my battery I spot a flat tyre on his truck. Now my handy-dandy air compressor kicks in plus a few other items that he does not carry and by George we are both happy and I can now look forward to a 3-hour drive on gravel roads south.

Back in civilization, I contact the Yukon Honda, as Wednesday is a holiday, he won’t be able to order the glass until Thursday with a delivery date of a week Thursday. It seems that Alberta is going to be my only bet not unless I can live with the plastic window until October.

Anyhow it’s down from the Dempster Hwy turning east on Route 2 to Carmacks for the night.

Carmacks for the night was another interesting scenario. Starting around midnight we have 3 women in the next house over trying to out do them selves on who can scream the loudest, then we have mom coming out and adding her voice to the song fest. Next it’s the lads across the way drunk and calling the women every name in the book. And we have a repeat at 0400hrs.

From Carmacks, its back across the bridge and hooking a right on Route 4 with a petrol and cuppa at Ross River, population 400, then continue on 4. The road after Ross gets a bit narily, but considering what I’ve been through, it’s a major highway.

Did photo a black bear but other then that it was just another gravel road. Thinking that I just might escape without the front windscreen suffering any damage, wrong on all accounts. Two dings today with one going from right to left. I am starting to believe that the Yukon has less then 30% of their roads sealed and they are in league with the glass manufactures. Even the Alaska Highway is gravel in many places but what really amazes me is that the native bird is not the mosquito.

Simpson Lake campsite it is for the night with Watson Lake tomorrow, hopefully getting a Honda Dealer lined up for a replacement to the back window.

Alberta Honda is going to ship the back window in and when I get to Edmonton, Alberta, they will install same.

Starting from Simpson Lake and heading to Watson Lake was supposed to be a piece of cake. But due to the heavy rains for the last couple of days the roads that were being worked on were a bloody mess. A bit like trying to drive on ice and my thoughts of anyone trying to go through this mess on a motorcycle is definitely going down regardless. Into Watson Lake with a stop at the Information office for a cuppa and a brief chat. They must have 10,000 license plates and signs that adorn the surrounding area around the center. Traveling east from Watson we encounter, black bears, moose, bald eagles, bison (2 herds), reindeer, and mountain sheep. I haven’t seen this many animals in the 2 months on the road and I get all of this in a 5-hour period.

It’s Route 77 British Columbia going north to Yellowknife, capital of the Northwestern Territories, which we look at next. Plenty of gravel, potholes and mud.

With another RV parked in the same area (Rt 77) for the night it was 3 cups of your finest in the morn with the same amount of BS to go along with it. So Route 77 north to the Northwest Territories border then we change to Rt 7. First petrol stop is Fort Liard and of course not asking the right questions again leaves me to believe that there is petrol ahead at a particular gas station. Well as all good bits of data come to fore, subject petrol station had been closed for the past 2 years. This meant that I had to go west 65 kilometers to Fort Shimpson to get fuel plus the 65 kilos back. As the next petrol station was 300 kilometers in the eastily direction and the fuel gauge was just below the half mark…………did I mention that since the Yukon I have killed over 1000 mosquitoes. To get to the fuel stop it also included a ferry ride.

Anyway up Route 77 to 7, which follows onto Rt 1, which at the time I am spending, the night right below a bridge and the mossies are in great form. Tried stopping at other areas but the deer flies (a bigger bite, more blood) were about in abundance. Bison and reindeer were the noted animals for the day. The dirt road up on Rt 7 was right bloody nasty in spots, wet, slippery as bull dust (Google). The biker that I met the night before had gone down in this very area.

Getting finally on the road to Yellowknife (Northwest Territories capital) and a day later I am there. Ride around it twice trying to find a place to wash clothes and Wal-mart. I finally decide that life is a lot better out of the big city and head south. It’s another long ride south to Alberta, hopefully leaving the mossie;s and deer flies behind.

Would like to make one statement here; anyone that comes north this time of the year and wears shorts and a t-shirt has got to be a total nut case do to the mossies and deer flies. The only good thing is that there is a lot of flying insects now blessed with my DNA.
Facebook for photos.

Norm
The Greynomad

06/27/09 Wa- Vancouver, B.C – Haines Junction, Yukon- Tok, Alaska

Seattle, Wa- Vancouver, B.C – Haines Junction, Yukon- Tok, Alaska
After spending the weekend in Seattle with dubious friends of questable character.

Monday found myself back on the road going north for the next phase of this trip. Crossing the border and circumventing Vancouver was fairly straightforward. Following Route 99 around the coastline up to Whistler (host for Winter Olympics 2010) was enjoyable as the roads are in excellent condition due to the Winter Olympics scheduled for next year. Once you get beyond Pemberton, the road gets a bit rugged with construction, paving and gravel. But this is where you want to be, away from the glitter, traffic and people. The campsite for the night is in a rest area of sorts, out of the wind and a 5 lb bag of organic tortilla chips to munch on.

Of course I could not pick a spot that had the sun hitting it until1200hrs. It was a bit on the chill side and trying to put on as many layers of clothes as possible inside the sleeping bag is always a fun event. First major stop was for a cuppa plus one to go. Staying on Rt 99 was enjoyable, then we join the masses with another slew of vehicles together on Route 97 going north. We live with Rt 97 allllllllll day long plus at least 12 road construction sites. To top this off just north of Williams Lake we have a 2 car crash, which kills both occupants. It takes the fire department and medics 4 hours to cut the victims out of the wreckage. The vehicle that caused the crash had veered across the centerline in excess of 90 mph.

Hixon is the site for the night and I am now in mosquito country and the fun begins also have made a drastic change to the Goatmobile for sleeping. And is life even better. Still haven’t figured out how to install the beer keg on the roof yet.

Back on Route 97 up to Prince George, probably the largest city in northern British Columbia, then Route 16 west for the next 4 hours. Finally arriving in the town of Kitwanga. From here it is Route 37 north. Now most people with just a half tank of petrol would fill the tank up again with questionable gas stations up the road. Not yours truly though because he is just too smart for his own good. Both gas stations that I was depending on were closed and out of business. The fuel warning light is on and I have another 70 (46 miles) kilometers to go for the nearest petrol station. Stewart, B.C. was the closest and the only saving grace was that it was all down hill into Stewart. After filling ($60.00) up I estimated that I was on fumes for the last mile. And of course there is no cell phone coverage with adds a bit of excitement. Spent the night at a RV site and don’t we have mosquito’s here in big, big numbers. Me thinks this is going to be the norm for the rest of the trip until the east coast, maybe. The RV site had a grizzly come through the camp last week so it is no tents or soft side campers for overnight stays at all.

The trip back out from Stewart on Route 37A is not to be missed. Mountains on both sides of the road and a glacier as an added attraction. And if you have the time and patience, the Salmon Glacier is an hour and a half away via sealed road
Southwest of Stewart through Canadian and US Customs, a bit humbug. Once you are out of Stewart it is route 37 north to Watson Lake, that’s if you get there. Last year about this time I came up this way via the Jasper National Park, Fort Nelson then west through Whitehorse. If I had my choice again, Route 37 would be the way to go, but you would then miss the huge glacier at Jasper along with 50 tour buses and a mass of people. Getting back to Route 37 north, it’s a mixture of sealed road and gravel along with the odd Black Tail Deer and mountain sheep. It’s a long drive but the scenery well makes up for it. The campsite for the night is a rest area just 30k south of Watson Lake.

Had a chance to talk to people from Ontario and their take on crossing from Alberta to Ontario. Flat farmland with roads that run straight and when you get to the horizon the road continues straight till the next horizon, just grin and bear it. A bit like the outback of Australia I would say.

Another night of rain, but as I made a few modifications to the Goatmobile, single nights on the road will be inside the vehicle. It takes about 15 minutes to get everything sorted out and along with the 52 inch HD TV screen, more better!!!

Up to the Great Alaska Highway heading west to Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon Territories, and 5 hours later I am in the city itself. Too busy and too many people so with Haines Junction only another 150 kilometers west and the sun still bright on the horizon, it was a go. Haines Junction, I passed this way last year on my motorcycle, has a German Bakery that is not to be missed. It is fat pill heaven to the max along with a great cuppa of coffee. Haines was supposed to be mosquito’s free but somewhere some how the word just didn’t get out………

Just a short note; total petrol cost for today was $110.00 and the more remote I get, it will get worst. Tomorrow I’ll be in Tok, Alaska then back across the border into the Yukon and the Northwest Territories before heading south into Alberta.

Haines Junction to Tok, Alaska is a mind numbing experience. First you have frost heaves (Google the name for an explanation) then road construction and last of all chip seal roads that are dustier then the whatever’s. Tok is wet, rainy, overcast and no relief insight for better weather. Its ok as I am out of here tomorrow for Chicken, Alaska, ferry across the Yukon River and Dawson City, Yukon for the night.

Facebook for photos

Norm The Greynomad

06/20/09 Seattle, Wa-Vancouver Island, British Columbia (BC)-Seattle

After spending a few days in sunny (don’t even believe that one) Seattle, even had to put chains on the Goatmobile, it was buying a bike, getting the tyres rotated and actually sleeping in a bed. Had to pay the lady of the house in cigars though; she then sells the cigar stubby’s to the homeless. Another great idea for the stimulus package coming out of Washington.

Away from Seattle catching the ferry to Bainbridge Island then west to Port Angeles for the ferry to Vancouver Island. Ferry ride was uneventful but getting out of Victoria was a bit of a bear but after making just a few wrong turns the vehicle was finally pointed to route 14 which runs along the south west end of the island. Hoping that I would make it to Port Renfrew, but time was getting short so it was into French Beach Park, a provincial park, for the night and sleeping in the goatmobile

With a Power Bar and a cup of hot chocolate, off to Port Renfrew for another 2 cuppa’s. Just enough to max me out and keep me awake for the next 48 hrs. Port Renfrew north on a logging road that has just been sealed to Mesachie Lake for email and a lot of nonsense. Back to Route 1 and following this north to route 19 before turning off on Route 4 to Tofino. Stopping at an Information booth and the prices just for a tent site in Tofino was $42.00. Decided that the National Park for $23.00 was just a bit better. Did see 2 black bears crossing a creek along side the road though and did manage to get at least one picture.

One thing you will find at both the Provincial and National Parks is no shower facilities. Sooooooooooooooo tomorrow, after going 15 days without a wash it is into Icluelet for a shower ($6.00). And here I thought New Zealand was expensive!!

Forget the wash, forget the cuppa, go to Tofino and turn around. Object today was a campsite in the Strathcona Provincial Park. Getting there was back out to Route 19, head north to Campbell River then west on 28 next south to Ralph River Campsite. Before this we continue on to Myra Falls, which you cannot miss, it is spectacular in every sense of the word. And for those who want to, and I mean want to, jump in the pool. Believe me it will drop the body core temp down quickly.

None of you have met Jill; she is with me every step of the way. She doesn’t argue, give grief for making a wrong turn, mine if I pass gas while driving, have bad breath in the morn, enjoys all of her meals and doesn’t mind me wearing clothes for 5-10 days at a time. She is the female voice on my GPS and I could have chosen John, but more likely he be more humbug and no sense of humour.

Before I get any further if for any reason you are thinking of getting into the outback, you best bring plenty of water or you can just boil as you go (my that is a catchy phase).

Over to Gold River and a stop at the local Wi-Fi coffee shop where I got the latest on where to go for the day. Logging road out to Tahsis for a spin and another cuppa. Road was in decent shape, primarily gravel with patches of seal. I would venture to say that the tide fluctuation at Tahsis must be 10-12 feet. After this I am heading back east until I caught the road to Tuta Marina, Tlupana Inlet. This is definitely a logging road, rough gravel and you best have a good set of tyres on, as this road will make a believer out of you. Of course you have been eating gravel dust all morning so another 50 (30 miles) kilometers of dust just adds to the excitement. Got down to Tuta Marina and immediately you are looking for a way out. A bit short on the setup and outhouse facilities. So back up the road to Cougar Creek RV park and being that I am a senior it was $5.00 for the night.

Up bright and early and the no-see-ems (black flies) are waiting right outside the tent. So moving quickly and trying to minimize the biting activity we are on our way back to Gold River Coffee Shop and a major fat pill purchase. After talking to the locals it was Telegraph Cove for today’s event. Back out to Campbell River then north on route 19 and believe me when I say the amount of cars on the road are few and far between. The cost of petrol is at right over $4.00 a gallon (Canada) and has turned out to be a major expense for this trip. The US is still sitting at $2.69 in Washington State.

Weather is going to turn nasty within the next day or two up in Northern Vancouver Island. The Goatmobile will just have to suffer with the 10 day socks hanging from the windows.

Telegraph Cove it is for the night, other then being a tourist trap, nothing special about the place. As it is along the shoreline we have the whale watcher, scuba, kayak and spend your money as you please. Other then not having to pay for the shower, the campsite could take a huge miss. Cape Scott was the calling for the next days adventure.

Getting to Cape Scott was 40 miles of gravel road via the booming metropolis of Holberg. Holberg’s existence is mainly supportive of the logging industry, 200 men with 5 women in the township. Cape Scott is a hiker’s dream; you park your vehicle then walk 15 kilometers to ocean. Next follow the shoreline east for 25 kilo’s and have the water taxi pick you up for the return trip. What you pack in is what you pack out with. The Cape is a wilderness area; nothing is available except for the golden arches……… After getting out to the Cape and was it raining, thoughts of a drier environment was on the agenda. Back to Port Hardy for the night, hot shower and the wet weather following me. Wet tent in the morn but what was new.

Campbell River and Loveland Bay Provincial Park for the night with a stop at Port Alice. Port Alice as well as all of the other logging towns are in dire straits due to the down turn in the economy and the collapse of the logging industry. Back to Loveland, it started raining and all night long it was beating a pattern on the Goatmobiles roof.

As I had scheduled a ferry from Sidney, B.C. to Anacortes, Wa for Thursday morning, moving down closer to Victoria was a must. Tried staying off the main road as much as possible as time was not a factor. Finally arrived at Bamberton Provincial Park, 45 kilometers north of Victoria and $15.00 for the night. Forgot to mentioned that when I pulled into Campbell River for petrol, to fill the 15-gallon tank I was out of pocket $47.00 Canadian dollars, bloody hell.

I’ve had such good luck with the Provincial Parks in British Columbia that my trip across Canada will be guided as much as possible as to the locations of the parks.

Met a couple from Manitoba and we got into a conversation about mosquitoes. Well it seems that Manitoba is considered the mosquito capital of Canada along with the black “No-see-ems” flies. Matter of fact as long as I stay as far north as I plan to every bit of kit that I’ll be wearing will have the seal of approval of Duct Tape.

So the ferry it was from Sidney, B.C to Anacortes, Washington. Got in around 1500hrs then off to Deception Pass State Park for the night. Being the bright lad that I am my campsite is directly across the way from a high school birthday party……….me thinks that I plan these confrontations with kids just knowing that it is improving my sensitivity training. Tomorrow back down to Seattle for a day or two waiting on my current vehicle registration to be forwarded from Hawaii.

There are photos and a map of Vancouver Island track posted on Facebook.
enjoy...

Norm
The Greynomad

06/08/09 Castle Rock - Westport-Port Angeles-Bainbridge Island-Seattle

Castle Rock- Westport-Port Angeles-Bainbridge Island-Seattle

With the wind in my sails, same socks for day 5 and the likely hood that I have another 2 weeks to go before changing same, does life really get any better…

South to the Columbia River then its west to the coast with a short trip to Leadbetter Point. Believe me it is not a short trip and the toilet paper was missing out of the loo when I got there. How do you figure…? Turned around and back down to Rt 101 then stopping at the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge where I quietly informed them of the toilet paper issue…….

From Willapa, it was pretty much following the coastline into Westport for the next two days.

It was Westport and 200 miles on the odometer for the day of going there and here and not really anywhere. Made it up to Taholah, Quinault Indian Reservation for a bit. If you have ever been to a native tribe area be it New Zealand, Australia, Canada or the US then I need say no more. Of course the high number of diabetics in the community is a given.

Westport in the rear view mirror and new horizons for the day. Followed Route 101 up the coast and it wasn’t until Rt 101 got into the Olympic National Park did the scenery begin to really get interesting. Pulling into the beaches and looking at the amount of driftwood along the frontage and watching the fog play with the weather. As much as I enjoyed the Oregon coast, the Washington coast has a beauty of its own that really appeals to me. Another downside of the Oregon coast is the amount of commercialization that is going on.

Port Angeles RV site is it for the next couple of days as I wander both west and east.

West it is to Cape Flattery for the day. Petrol prices in the outer back at the $2.97 level and tell me if we don’t see $4.00 level before this coming fall. Getting to Cape Flattery via Route 112 will have you pissing up a rope by the time you get there. Not only is the road all over the place with curves that will drive you nuts, but we also have road construction, which adds another hour onto our travels. And to add to the excitement of traveling in either direction we have the 30 and under trying to set speed records going around blind curves. But it is ok, we need to have a better selection of the gene pool and these clowns are going to provide that necessary data one of these days.

The Cape is worth the drive and besides the $10.00 you pay to the local Indian tribe to visit same the view is worth every penny. And to add enjoyment to the Cape we have 3 buses of teenagers from the Port Angeles high school out there today on a field trip. No comment on the dress code!

Dungeness NWR and Hurricane Ridge was next on the agenda for the following day. The NWR covers a long spit jutting out into the ocean, which you can walk at low tide, recommended, and enjoy the wildlife while all the time looking for that odd glass ball……………….

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park (NP) is up at the 5500-foot level and I WAS GURANNTEED THAT there were wild flowers there. The flowers were there all right, if you don’t mind waiting for the 3 ft of snow to melt.

It was time to move on to the big island of Bainbridge and with the Hood Canal Bridge having just opened a day before, what was a 5-hour trip now became 1 ½ hrs. Spent 2 days in Bainbridge and was given the guided tour of every beach, pizza joint, loo and houses for sale that were over a million in price. Acquired not only a wet tent but also every slug that could manage to creep under the tent. I just happen to hit Bainbridge when they were having a heat wave, 60 degrees, give me a break but the locals were adamant about this. Me thinks someone is sniffing some old cans of paint.

Seattle it is for the next day or two getting me supply of power bars in stock, tires rotated on the Goatmobile, purchase a bike rack for the back of the Honda and a very, very cheap pedal bike.

Facebook is a source of the latest pictures, enjoy.

Norm
The Greynomad

01/06/09 Florence-Columbia River-Mt Hood, Oregon-Toppenish-Mt Rainer-Mossyrock-Mount St Helens, Washington

1 June 2009

Florence-Columbia River-Mt Hood, Oregon-Toppenish-Mt Rainer-Mossyrock-Mount St Helens, Washington

Out of Florence with a coyote crossing my path, turning north for new roads, people and sleepless nights. Followed the coast line (Rt 101) and looking for that first cuppa to really start the day off right. Off Depoe Bay, stopping to take a picture of the coast line when I spotted a green 4x4 moving along the beach. The vehicle stopped right below me (200 ft up), individual got out of the truck and walked over to a seal, clearly out weighting the man by 100lbs. It was obvious that the seal was dead as there was no reaction from the seal at all. In most probability, someone had spotted the seal earlier and called it in.

Made numerous stops at National Wildlife Refuge's as I traveled North, some were open to the public others not.

Reached the township of Seaside and found a RV site for the night. As it was raining, the Goatmobile was the sanctuary for the night. A bit cramped and again realizing that I bought too much gear. Give myself another month or so and the popcorn machine with the TV screen will just have to go.

The Lewis and Clark Trail and the Columbia River was the quest for the day. For those that are not in the know, Lewis and Clark were a couple of hippies out of St Louis, Missouri that were into heavy metal and hip-hop music. To make a long story short, they bought a Cadillac Escalade, the biggest SUV around, and another fine product from General Motors. Off they went north following the Missouri River north-west, selling flowers and that funny weed that everyone smokes, when they met Bin Lama, who in turn sold them the Columbia River for a stake in the Chrysler Corp. Of course with a great return on a sub-prime loan. Any questions see my accountant.

After taking the by-pass through Portland, Oregon, which was a bloody nightmare, continued east along the Columbia. If you can do it follow route 30 vice the Interstate 84, it’s a big slow but all of the water falls, gorges, camp sites and dams are accessible through Rt 30. There is nowhere to stop on Rt 84 and you lose a lot of the beauty of the Columbia River Gorge. I got off the Hood River exit and traveled north to Mount Hood then east to Dufur (pop 650) for a night stay at the city park

Stopping for that morning cuppa at the local store then it was back down from Dufur to The Dalles along the Columbia River east. Again running the interstate but if I could find a county road then so be it. Once you get beyond Rufus, it is a very long ride until the next bridge to Washington State as the Oregon side of the river gets pretty humbug. Crossed over at Umatilla into Washington State and headed west again along the Washington side of the river. Actually enjoyed the ride more as it was a 2-lane road with the ability to get off when I wanted to. At Maryhill decided that Rt 97 was the way to go and having decided at staying at a RV site in Toppenish.

Stopped briefly at the Toppenish NWR but it was closed up so it was to the Yakama Nation RV site for the night. Had the tent area to myself until a bus load, do you even have to guess, of 4th graders on a field trip parked themselves right next to me. The kids were well behaved and one lad decided that he was going to bring me up to speed on global warming.

Global warning has not, and I can verify this with pictures of my windscreen that there has been a decrease in the influx of bugs.

Toppenish to Mossyrock was on for the agenda via Mt Rainer. Unfortunately the rangers and Rainer had plans other wise. Rainer had only one campsite open and that didn’t happen until this past Memorial Day holiday. All of the other campsites are still covered with snow and debris. A major road through Mt Rainer got completely washed out and will not be open until August time frame. Since I was on my third cuppa, decide to circumvent Rainer and add another 100 miles to the odometer. Got loss a few times but what is new……..

Now the only place to find lodging in Mossyrock was the state park. If you have never experienced a state park before, do it once and you will never go back. The state park might be a bit cheaper but believe me when it comes to peace and quite a RV site is more better believe me. If I had my way that night there would have been body bags lining the entrance to the state park. Parents just seem to walk in the other direction when their precious little ………….start causing problems, matter of fact the parents would be in the same body bag with their kid.

Mount St Helens was the quest for the day and the next. You drive up, take pictures and drive down and that’s it. Not to be missed if you are in the area though and the roads and information centers are excellent. Now the south side of St Helens is a different animal altogether. Snow is still in abundance and just about all of the access roads are closed. Made numerous attempts going up roads that were closed but it all came back to snow. Did meet one individual who had a flat tire, no tire iron, no truck jack and last of all no cell phone coverage. Stopped and offered assistance but the tools I have just does not fit a ¾ ton truck. Luckily someone was along within minutes; this guy had everything but the kitchen sink. With the 3 of us working together, we had the tyre changed and away within 30 minutes.

Next port of call is Westport, just about a 1/3 of the way up the Washington State coastline.

Go to Facebook for the latest pictures.

I’ve decided to do my part for global warming and minimize my carbon footprint. Resorting to my motorcycle days, we do the sniff test on a bi-weekly event. This way I can wear the same clothes for a minimum of 2 weeks, showers included and save all of the wasted water resources. I need a list of volunteers that will start this movement; a family in the southeast corner of Oregon have already applauded this concept especially the husband of this household.

Norm
The Greynomad