After spending a few days in sunny (don’t even believe that one) Seattle, even had to put chains on the Goatmobile, it was buying a bike, getting the tyres rotated and actually sleeping in a bed. Had to pay the lady of the house in cigars though; she then sells the cigar stubby’s to the homeless. Another great idea for the stimulus package coming out of Washington.
Away from Seattle catching the ferry to Bainbridge Island then west to Port Angeles for the ferry to Vancouver Island. Ferry ride was uneventful but getting out of Victoria was a bit of a bear but after making just a few wrong turns the vehicle was finally pointed to route 14 which runs along the south west end of the island. Hoping that I would make it to Port Renfrew, but time was getting short so it was into French Beach Park, a provincial park, for the night and sleeping in the goatmobile
With a Power Bar and a cup of hot chocolate, off to Port Renfrew for another 2 cuppa’s. Just enough to max me out and keep me awake for the next 48 hrs. Port Renfrew north on a logging road that has just been sealed to Mesachie Lake for email and a lot of nonsense. Back to Route 1 and following this north to route 19 before turning off on Route 4 to Tofino. Stopping at an Information booth and the prices just for a tent site in Tofino was $42.00. Decided that the National Park for $23.00 was just a bit better. Did see 2 black bears crossing a creek along side the road though and did manage to get at least one picture.
One thing you will find at both the Provincial and National Parks is no shower facilities. Sooooooooooooooo tomorrow, after going 15 days without a wash it is into Icluelet for a shower ($6.00). And here I thought New Zealand was expensive!!
Forget the wash, forget the cuppa, go to Tofino and turn around. Object today was a campsite in the Strathcona Provincial Park. Getting there was back out to Route 19, head north to Campbell River then west on 28 next south to Ralph River Campsite. Before this we continue on to Myra Falls, which you cannot miss, it is spectacular in every sense of the word. And for those who want to, and I mean want to, jump in the pool. Believe me it will drop the body core temp down quickly.
None of you have met Jill; she is with me every step of the way. She doesn’t argue, give grief for making a wrong turn, mine if I pass gas while driving, have bad breath in the morn, enjoys all of her meals and doesn’t mind me wearing clothes for 5-10 days at a time. She is the female voice on my GPS and I could have chosen John, but more likely he be more humbug and no sense of humour.
Before I get any further if for any reason you are thinking of getting into the outback, you best bring plenty of water or you can just boil as you go (my that is a catchy phase).
Over to Gold River and a stop at the local Wi-Fi coffee shop where I got the latest on where to go for the day. Logging road out to Tahsis for a spin and another cuppa. Road was in decent shape, primarily gravel with patches of seal. I would venture to say that the tide fluctuation at Tahsis must be 10-12 feet. After this I am heading back east until I caught the road to Tuta Marina, Tlupana Inlet. This is definitely a logging road, rough gravel and you best have a good set of tyres on, as this road will make a believer out of you. Of course you have been eating gravel dust all morning so another 50 (30 miles) kilometers of dust just adds to the excitement. Got down to Tuta Marina and immediately you are looking for a way out. A bit short on the setup and outhouse facilities. So back up the road to Cougar Creek RV park and being that I am a senior it was $5.00 for the night.
Up bright and early and the no-see-ems (black flies) are waiting right outside the tent. So moving quickly and trying to minimize the biting activity we are on our way back to Gold River Coffee Shop and a major fat pill purchase. After talking to the locals it was Telegraph Cove for today’s event. Back out to Campbell River then north on route 19 and believe me when I say the amount of cars on the road are few and far between. The cost of petrol is at right over $4.00 a gallon (Canada) and has turned out to be a major expense for this trip. The US is still sitting at $2.69 in Washington State.
Weather is going to turn nasty within the next day or two up in Northern Vancouver Island. The Goatmobile will just have to suffer with the 10 day socks hanging from the windows.
Telegraph Cove it is for the night, other then being a tourist trap, nothing special about the place. As it is along the shoreline we have the whale watcher, scuba, kayak and spend your money as you please. Other then not having to pay for the shower, the campsite could take a huge miss. Cape Scott was the calling for the next days adventure.
Getting to Cape Scott was 40 miles of gravel road via the booming metropolis of Holberg. Holberg’s existence is mainly supportive of the logging industry, 200 men with 5 women in the township. Cape Scott is a hiker’s dream; you park your vehicle then walk 15 kilometers to ocean. Next follow the shoreline east for 25 kilo’s and have the water taxi pick you up for the return trip. What you pack in is what you pack out with. The Cape is a wilderness area; nothing is available except for the golden arches……… After getting out to the Cape and was it raining, thoughts of a drier environment was on the agenda. Back to Port Hardy for the night, hot shower and the wet weather following me. Wet tent in the morn but what was new.
Campbell River and Loveland Bay Provincial Park for the night with a stop at Port Alice. Port Alice as well as all of the other logging towns are in dire straits due to the down turn in the economy and the collapse of the logging industry. Back to Loveland, it started raining and all night long it was beating a pattern on the Goatmobiles roof.
As I had scheduled a ferry from Sidney, B.C. to Anacortes, Wa for Thursday morning, moving down closer to Victoria was a must. Tried staying off the main road as much as possible as time was not a factor. Finally arrived at Bamberton Provincial Park, 45 kilometers north of Victoria and $15.00 for the night. Forgot to mentioned that when I pulled into Campbell River for petrol, to fill the 15-gallon tank I was out of pocket $47.00 Canadian dollars, bloody hell.
I’ve had such good luck with the Provincial Parks in British Columbia that my trip across Canada will be guided as much as possible as to the locations of the parks.
Met a couple from Manitoba and we got into a conversation about mosquitoes. Well it seems that Manitoba is considered the mosquito capital of Canada along with the black “No-see-ems” flies. Matter of fact as long as I stay as far north as I plan to every bit of kit that I’ll be wearing will have the seal of approval of Duct Tape.
So the ferry it was from Sidney, B.C to Anacortes, Washington. Got in around 1500hrs then off to Deception Pass State Park for the night. Being the bright lad that I am my campsite is directly across the way from a high school birthday party……….me thinks that I plan these confrontations with kids just knowing that it is improving my sensitivity training. Tomorrow back down to Seattle for a day or two waiting on my current vehicle registration to be forwarded from Hawaii.
There are photos and a map of Vancouver Island track posted on Facebook.
enjoy...
Norm
The Greynomad
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